Your primary source of Vacuum and Boost is your Intake Manifold.  There are three ports that come off.  One is directly on top of the I/M and is typically connected to your PCV Valve on your Valve Cover.  This draws gasses out of your crank case to depressurize it and prevent oil leaks.  The second is close to the firewall. and typically is connected to your brake booster.  I teed this one off and ran one to my boost gauge through the grommet where the wire harness goes into the cabin on the drivers side.   The last port is on the front of the I/M and is capped off from the factor.  I ran a vacuum hose to my adjustable fuel pressure regulator and to my blow off valve via a Tee.  The hose going from the tee to the FPR has a 1 way valve because I did not want fuel pressure to change unless boost is detected.

​

How does a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator work?  You set a baseline fuel pressure at idle.  The FPR has a spring in it that is being pulled on by vacuum from your vacuum / boost source (in this case the intake manifold).  As your vacuum decreases towards 0 and your boost becomes positive, the fuel pressure rises by a set ratio.  The FPR I have is a 1:1 meaning as soon as the intake manifold has 1 lb of boost the fuel pressure increases by 1 pound.  I set the idle fuel pressure to 45 (which is just slightly higher than stock of 43.5) and it rises to 49-50 at max boost.  This is needed to help feed fuel from your injectors into the manifold as the manifold pressure pushes back against your injectors when boosting.

​

How does a wastegate work?  - Watch my video. The wastegate has a diaphragm and a spring where one side of the diaphragm is plumbed to the turbo and the other is open to the atmosphere.  As the turbo builds boost, the vacuum hose is "telling" the wastegate how much boost is being built up.  As soon as the boost equals the springs rating, the air pressure has become great enough to push the spring open which opens up and diverts extra exhaust gas out the screamer pipe so that the turbo cannot spin up any more boost then that set by the spring in the wastegate.    On the CX Racing turbos there is a nipple on the Turbo that you can plumb to your wastegate (which is attached to your exhaust manifold).  In this way, the wastegate references boost directly from the turbo.  Some people say you should reference it from the intake manifold.  It doesn't really matter but might as well use the nipple provided.

​

How does  a Blow Off Valve work? - Watch my video.  The blow off valve sits on the intake piping before the maf sensor and the intake manifold.  You run a vacuum hose to the intake manifold to reference vacuum/boost from behind the throttle body.  When there is boost in the intake pipe but vacuum in the intake manifold (behind the throttle plate), the BOV is pushed open and air comes out.  You will notice the BOV will also evacuate air when the vacuum behind the throttle plate is higher than the vacuum in the intake piping.  It's just based on pressure differential.  If there is more pressure in the intake piping then in the intake manifold, it will dump.  So why does it go "psh" when you get off the gas?  Because the throttle plate snaps shut, the engine uses up all the air in the intake manifold but cannot get anymore with the the throttle plate shut.  So the engine pumped air our without getting much new air in creating a vacuum.  Meanwhile on the other side of the throttle body, there is plenty of air that is sitting in the pipes that cannot get past the throttle plate.  This pressure differential causes the "psh" sound.

​

​

Oil Drain (Turbo Side) - Long 10 AN Drain Flange to a 10 AN 90 degree swivel and 10 an Hose down to the stock 2JZ Drain location

Oil Drain (Engine Side) -  Kinugawa two bolt flange 1/2 NPT with a 1/2 NPT to 10AN adapter.  I originally used a bulkhead fitting but I lost some sleep thinking about a metal lock nut flying around the crank case.  Just bite the bullet and tap the stock location for a two bolt or if you can weld, weld it.  I have some videos showing the oil drain.
Don't use the CX Racing provided Hoses or fittings.  Not sure why but CX Racing seems to think you can use a CPE Stainless Steel Braided hose with a barbed fitting on the Turbo.  Not only would the hose not fit the fitting but the hose would touch the hot side and melt.  You need a longer fitting to clear the turbo and it should be an AN fitting.

​

Oil Feed - CX Racing provided sandwich plate to the provided hose. 

I did not use water cooling and it's lasted two years with a couple of track days in there.  The hose to the heater is also a pain.  I used a long 5/8 radiator hose and ziptied it away from the turbo.  Not ideal but a problem for another day.

​​

Monitoring - Amazon Wideband (see my video and products page for affiliate link)
Bosch boost gauge

​​

Clocking the turbo  - is a bitch.  I have it clocked so the oil drain exits at the 7-8 o clock position.  Not ideal but couldn't get it any other way.  As far as I can tell it drains fine.  Also, this makes the intercooler pipe routing awkward.  There's a 90-degree elbow off the turbo and it butts right up against the passenger shock tower. It's a weird config but it is what it is.

​

Intercooler routing - you have to cut a 3 inch hole below the stock airbox (obviously need to remove the air box).  You have to just eyeball how the pipes are routed and cut in the right place using a hole saw.  I bought a hole saw that was made for wood so this was difficult.  Do yourself a favor and get a proper hole saw bit for steel.  

​

ABS - The CX Racing kit does not require ABS to be moved BUT the back of the engine bay along banks 4-6 get really hot and the brake lines are about 1 inch from the hot side of the turbo.  I got away with heat wrapping everything as much as I could but eventually decided to delete ABS to keep the brake lines on the drivers side as much as possible.  Up to you but I suggest just leaving the abs to start and then do abs relo or delete later, especially if you are tracking the car.

​

Battery - I did a battery relo to the trunk using an amazon kit.  It's convenient and I have a switch that allows me to easily dc power.  The turbo adds some weight over the front so it's not a bad idea to relocate the battery but up to you and not required.

​

Horns - A random thing to consider.  The intercooler gets in the way of the stock horns.  I was able to twist them around to fit BUT I think this caused one of them to die on me because their orientation did not allow them to drain when wet.  Whatever, I got some HELLA horns that I will be wiring up. Wooo Wooo.  You're posed to be up cookin breakfast